Method of Installing Old Fashioned Solid Rivets
Align and clamp the parts to be riveted. Drill through the parts with the same size drill as the rivet diameter. Insert the rivet into the hole. It is not necessary to heat the rivet. The end of the rivet should protrude through the part above one rivet diameter (e.g.: 1/4″ diameter rivet should protrude through the parts about 1/4″). Place a back-up piece firmly against the rivet head. This could be a pieces of lead, brass, or hard wood weighing several pounds and is usually easier if done by a helper. Steel, brick, etc. should not be used since it will flatten the rivet head. Hold the rivet set firmly against the blunt end of the rivet and strike it with a hammer. Several blows are usually required to make a tight and neat job. Practice once on scrap metal.
The whole process is easy and should take no more than two minutes per rivet, once mastered.
A (part #99001): 1928-36, tailgate hinge straps, many other uses
B (part #99002): 1926-31, fender spacers, bed strips
C (part #99003): 1926-52, bed assembly, 1926-31, tailgate hinges, many other uses
D (part #99004): 1926-36, tailgate hinge straps, many other uses
E (part #99005): 1926-37, tailgate top bars
F (part #99006): 1926-37, chain brackets
G (part #99007): 1928-31, outer bed strips
H (part #99008): 1930-34, dispatch pockets
I (part #99009): 1926-36, tailgate corner braces, many other uses
J (part #99010): 1938-50, tailgate cast ends
K (part #99011): Frames, Crossmembers, Running braces, etc., most years